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Bahamas Beyond the Beach


Christopher Columbus © Eric MillerA statue of Christopher Columbus stands looking over a settlement with ties back to the time of the explorer himself.

 

Later this tropical paradise would be the center of a golden age of piracy, which financed the thriving town of Nassau, attracting settlers from around the globe.

Then after the American Revolution, many loyal to the British Crown fled the newly formed United States to New Providence Island.

While there are many island resorts with sun and sand, New Providence Island, and the town of Nassau offers a refuge from what’s expected at an island resort.

But the resorts are there too, making it an ideal destination for seekers of warm sun, uncompromised luxury, varied history and diverse culture. Less than an hour by plane from Florida, Nassau is located on New Providence Island, the most populated of the 700 or so islands that make up the Bahamas.

At the airport, New Providence looks sparse, the landscape windswept and the windy two lane roads where cars bear to the left leads to a string of resorts, including five known collectively as the Great Resorts of Nassau. From there, it’s a short drive or bus ride to the center of Nassau.

West Bay Street is bustling with shoppers browsing through open markets where locals sell handicraft items, shells and souvenirs. Colonial buildings, grand and ordinary, line the streets, left from a time when the nation of islands fell more closely under the rule of the British Crown. A statue of Queen Victoria stands outside the chambers of the Parliament buildings, still actively watching over the streets now lined with retail stores which range from Gucci to souvenir shops.

Other early structures, including a cathedral, an obelisk and early commercial buildings with balconies hovering over the foot traffic, maintain the charm known for centuries by residents and visitors to Nassau. The statue of Christopher Columbus stands at the stairs leading to the Governor’s House where a single Bahamian military guard watches over the quiet premises.

While the island nation has distanced itself from the crown, the European presence is still persistent.

But despite cars driving on the left side of the road, Nassau is close to the United States in ways other than geography. Many of the voicemiller2.jpg (9208 bytes) inflections heard from the street make it seem like a distant suburb of New York. And not surprisingly many of the tourists and a few of the residents are from Florida, which is closely connected to the Bahamas economically. Perhaps one of the most widely recognized commercial symbols anywhere, Disney’s mouse ears, compete with the statue of Columbus and hover over the harbor perched atop a docked cruise ship.

Constantly in the historical shadow of Europe and the commercial shadow of the United States, residents known as Bahamians, market their own culture to visitors in the busy, dark and crowded straw market.

While millions come to the Bahamas for the nice weather, to natives the sun is something to stay away from.

A large part of Bahamian culture focused on preparing for the colorful festival known as Junkanoo. But the increasing cost of the costumes has brought another outside influence in the way of corporate sponsorships of families who compete for prizes during the December celebration. Though the island is somewhat segregated racially, the Bahamians have an annual income that surpasses the residents of neighboring island countries and are eager to greet visitors and welcome them into their homes. Also above the city on a second ridge is a Junkanoo museum, adjacent to Fort Fincastle which dates from 1793. The fort, built to resemble the bow of a ship, draws little attention from visitors to the museum and merchants selling items outside its cool limestone walls.

From the top of the fort, the horizon spans across the bay with one of the oldest hotels, the British Colonial, and the islands newest hotel, Atlantis, visible.

Leading up to the old fort is a moist and dark refuge from the sun. The Queen’s Staircase was cut centuries ago into the limestone hillside, supposedly by slaves who chiseled one step for each year of the Queen’s life. Originally the stairway provided a means of escape down the hill from the fort.

Perhaps the most tropical destination on New Providence is the Ardastra Gardens and Zoo. The limestone walls surrounding five acres of ponds, streams and lush vegetation provide a home for hundreds of birds who roam freely through the gardens and nest beneath the trees.

 

© Eric MillerWinding pathways steer past peacocks, ducks and caged wildcats, monkeys and lemurs. And at special times flamingos march into an arena where they have continually amused visitors since the 1950s.

Even though the beaches and clear water are enough to bring visitors to the Bahamas, there are clearly other reasons to visit Nassau and New Providence.

Caught between the New World and the old, the island and town will continue to grow in its role as a popular resort destination, as others discover what lies beyond the beach.

Attractions

Fort Charlotte: Built in the late 18th century to guard the western entrance to Nassau Harbor. Tours every half hour from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Fort Fincastle: Built in 1793 by Governor Lord Dunmore. At the top of the fort is the water tower and lighthouse, which is 126 feet tall and provides a panoramic view of Nassau. Tours are available from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. every day except Thursdays. Queen’s Staircase. This steep staircase is believed to have been cut from solid limestone by slaves in the 1790s to provide an escape route from Fort Fincastle to town.

Pompey Museum: This museum was once an auction site for slaves in the 18th century. It now displays artifacts, historical documents and drawings which recount the history of slavery and emancipation in The Bahamas.

Ardastra Gardens & Zoo: Home of the famous marching flamingos and hundreds of animals and birds on five and a half acres of tropical tranquility.

Crystal Cay Park: The greatest show of natural marine life in the Caribbean. Descend 20 feet below the surface in the underwater marine observatory to see tons of fish, coral and sponges in their natural environment. Hours are 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily. Daily bus and boat transportation is available between Crystal Cay and Cable Beach, Paradise Island and downtown Nassau.

Cloisters: A 14th century, Augustinian Monastery was transported here to Paradise Island from France in 1968. It overlooks the harbor.

Parliament Square: Site of the Queen Victoria Statue and Chambers of Parliament - House of Assembly and the Senate. It is located on Bay Street. Loyalist influence is evident in these buildings.

Straw Market: A lively market offers local handicraft straw goods, T-shirts, souvenirs and wood carvings. The Market is located in downtown Nassau.

Botanical Gardens: Eighteen acres of tropical flowers, trees and plants as well as a recreated Lucayan Village. It is located on West Bay Street.

Government House: The official residence of The Bahamas Governor General, the Queen's representative.

Junkanoo Museum: Some of the winning costumes which formed part of the Annual Junkanoo Festival held in the early morning hours of Boxing Day, (the day after Christmas) and New Year's Eve are displayed. Located on Prince George Dock. Hours are 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily except holidays.

The Caves: Located on the western end of the island. The Lucayans sheltered here.

Balcony House: An 18th century restored house, the furnishings and design of Balcony House recapture the elegance and glory of a bygone era.

Nightlife

The Crystal Palace Casino: In the Nassau Marriott Resort this casino is open 24 hours a day. Tables open depending on crowd demand. This is a 35,000 square-foot casino that features "the Sports Book - a mini-theatre where you can wager on any major sporting event played, plus slot machines, Blackjack tables, roulette tables, Craps tables, Caribbean Stud tables, Baccarat tables, both European and American roulette. Phil’s Sports Bar & Deli - an authentic New York-style deli is another feature of the casino. The Crystal Palace Casino is one of the largest casinos in the Caribbean.

The Palace Theater: Nassau Marriott Resort & The Crystal Palace Casino's Jubilation show nightly except Thursdays. Both dinner and cocktail performances available. Tel.327-6200.

The King & Knights Club: Fort Nassau Beach Hotel, recreates the native dance styles and intertwines them with a native show and dancing that is bound to make your night most enjoyable. Show times at 8:30 p.m. and 10:30 p.m. nightly except Mondays.
Admission: $16 per person - includes one drink. Tel. 327-7711.

Dining (Also See Accomodations)

The Shoal Restaurant and Lounge: Nassau Street, serves both
Bahamian and American cuisine, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Open daily 7:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Tel. 323-4400.

The Green Shutters Inn: 48 Parliament Street, is an authentic
English Pub built into a 190-year-old Bahamian home offering Bahamian and English dishes. Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. and dinner is served 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Open Sundays 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tel.325-5702.

 

Double Dragon Chinese Cuisine: Located on Mackey Street. Open Monday through Thursday 12 noon to 10 p.m. Saturday 4-11 p.m. and Sunday and holidays 4-10 p.m. Tel. 393-5718.

The Poop Deck: East Bay Street, serves Bahamian seafood. Open daily. Tel. 393-8175.

Accommodations

Nassau Marriott Resort & Crystal Palace Casino
Reservations phone: (800) 222-7466- Marriott has 867 guest rooms, 124 suites, 7 restaurants, 3 lounges.
Dining: Sole Mare (gourmet Italian with view of the beach and pool deck) Open 6 days, 6:00p.m.-11:00p.m. (closed Mondays). Seaside Buffet (breakfast, lunch, dinner) Open 7:00a.m.-11:00p.m. Black Angus Grille Open 6 days, 6:00p.m. - 11:00p.m. (closed Sundays).
Goombay Mama's (breakfast/lunch/dinner) Open 6 days.
Crystal Sweets Open 7 days, 7:00a.m. - 11:00p.m.
Flamingo Poolside Grille Open 7 days.
Phil's Casino Bar & Deli Open 7 days, 10:00a.m. - 4:00a.m.
Recreation: Rainforest Adventure Golf Course (putt-putt), freshwater pool with swim-up bar.

Nassau Beach Hotel
Reservations phone: (888) 627-7282. 403 guest rooms and suites and 6 restaurants, 3 bars/lounges, 4 meeting rooms, 2 swimming pools, 6 tennis courts, quiet beautiful beach tennis and watersports in the charming Old Colonial style of bygone days. For the more quiet type of guest.

Dining: Pineapple Place (buffet breakfast) Open daily 7:30a.m.-11a.m.
Cafe Johnny Canoe - (breakfast-lunch-dinner) Open daily 7:30a.m.-midnight.
Beef Cellar and Italian Gardens (both dinner nightly) 6:30p.m.-11:00p.m.
Oceanview Grill – (lunch/dinner daily) Open11:00 a.m.-3:00pm..
Sbarro – (lunch/dinner daily) Open 11:00a.m. - 11:00p.m.
King & Knights Club (two shows nightly-8:30pm and 10:30pm)

 The Radisson Cable Beach Resort pool. © Eric MillerRadisson Cable Beach Resort
(European Plan or All-Inclusive)
Reservations phone: (800) 777-7800 or (242) 327-6000 - 700 rooms and suites and 6 restaurants. Located on 1,000 feet of white sand beach. Championship golf and CampJunkanoo for kids. Fitness center, free weddings, fancy landscape of freshwater pools with waterfalls, jacuzzis and swim-up bar.

Dining: Bimini Market Grill, Amici Italian Cuisine, Tequila Pepe's Steakhouse-Cantine, the Dolphin Grill, Avacados Fine Dining, The Forge.

Sandals Royal Bahamian Resort & Spa
(couples only): Winner of the prestigious AAA - 4 Diamond Award
Phone for reservations: 1-800-SANDALS- 406 guest rooms and suites, and 6 restaurants (plus snack bar). World's most elegant all-inclusive resort. The Spa voted the best in the Caribbean by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. Recreation: watersports & landsports including SCUBA, golf and waterskiing. Spa facilities, fitness center, 6 pools (2 swim-up bars).

Dining:
Spices (breakfast) 7:30a.m. -10:00a.m.
The Crystal Room (dinner) 6:30p.m. - 9:30p.m.
Baccarat (French gourmet) 6:00p.m. - 10:00p.m.
Royal Cafe Grill (Caribbean/Southwestern) 7:00p.m. - 10:00p.m.
Café Goombay (offshore island) 6:30p.m. - 9:30p.m.
The Cricketers (authentic English Pub) - 7:00p.m. - 3:00a.m.

SuperClubs Breezes Bahamas
(all-inclusive resort for people over 16 years of age): Reservations phone: (800) 859-7873 - 400 guest rooms and 3 restaurants. Tennis courts, trapeze and circus lessons on the beach for guests. Watersports, fitness center, windsurfing, landsports, tennis, etc. Super-inclusive package includes accommodations, all meals, snacks, unlimited premium brand drinks, all land and water sports (with instruction and equipment), recreation, entertainment, airport
transfers and hotel taxes. Caribbean design.

Dining:
Main dining room, Pastafari (dinner only); Pool Grill (snacks and refreshments).

Tours

Best Tour Company
Majestic Tours / Bahamas Fantasies on island, phone:
(242) 326-5818.

Perhaps the most tropical destination on New Providence is the Ardastra Gardens and Zoo. The limestone walls surrounding five acres of ponds, streams and lush vegetation provide a home for hundreds of birds who roam freely through the gardens and nest beneath the trees.

© Eric MillerWinding pathways steer past peacocks, ducks and caged wildcats, monkeys and lemurs. And at special times flamingos march into an arena where they have continually amused visitors since the 1950s.

Even though the beaches and clear water are enough to bring visitors to the Bahamas, there are clearly other reasons to visit Nassau and New Providence.

Caught between the New World and the old, the island and town will continue to grow in its role as a popular resort destination, as others discover what lies beyond the beach.

Attractions

Fort Charlotte: Built in the late 18th century to guard the western entrance to Nassau Harbor. Tours every half hour from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

Fort Fincastle: Built in 1793 by Governor Lord Dunmore. At the top of the fort is the water tower and lighthouse, which is 126 feet tall and provides a panoramic view of Nassau. Tours are available from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. every day except Thursdays. Queen’s Staircase. This steep staircase is believed to have been cut from solid limestone by slaves in the 1790s to provide an escape route from Fort Fincastle to town.

Pompey Museum: This museum was once an auction site for slaves in the 18th century. It now displays artifacts, historical documents and drawings which recount the history of slavery and emancipation in The Bahamas.

Ardastra Gardens & Zoo: Home of the famous marching flamingos and hundreds of animals and birds on five and a half acres of tropical tranquility.

Crystal Cay Park: The greatest show of natural marine life in the Caribbean. Descend 20 feet below the surface in the underwater marine observatory to see tons of fish, coral and sponges in their natural environment. Hours are 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily. Daily bus and boat transportation is available between Crystal Cay and Cable Beach, Paradise Island and downtown Nassau.

Cloisters: A 14th century, Augustinian Monastery was transported here to Paradise Island from France in 1968. It overlooks the harbor.

Parliament Square: Site of the Queen Victoria Statue and Chambers of Parliament - House of Assembly and the Senate. It is located on Bay Street. Loyalist influence is evident in these buildings.

Straw Market: A lively market offers local handicraft straw goods, T-shirts, souvenirs and wood carvings. The Market is located in downtown Nassau.

Botanical Gardens: Eighteen acres of tropical flowers, trees and plants as well as a recreated Lucayan Village. It is located on West Bay Street.

Government House: The official residence of The Bahamas Governor General, the Queen's representative.

Junkanoo Museum: Some of the winning costumes which formed part of the Annual Junkanoo Festival held in the early morning hours of Boxing Day, (the day after Christmas) and New Year's Eve are displayed. Located on Prince George Dock. Hours are 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. daily except holidays.

The Caves: Located on the western end of the island. The Lucayans sheltered here.

Balcony House: An 18th century restored house, the furnishings and design of Balcony House recapture the elegance and glory of a bygone era.

Nightlife

The Crystal Palace Casino: In the Nassau Marriott Resort this casino is open 24 hours a day. Tables open depending on crowd demand. This is a 35,000 square-foot casino that features "the Sports Book - a mini-theatre where you can wager on any major sporting event played, plus slot machines, Blackjack tables, roulette tables, Craps tables, Caribbean Stud tables, Baccarat tables, both European and American roulette. Phil’s Sports Bar & Deli - an authentic New York-style deli is another feature of the casino. The Crystal Palace Casino is one of the largest casinos in the Caribbean.

The Palace Theater: Nassau Marriott Resort & The Crystal Palace Casino's Jubilation show nightly except Thursdays. Both dinner and cocktail performances available. Tel.327-6200.

The King & Knights Club: Fort Nassau Beach Hotel, recreates the native dance styles and intertwines them with a native show and dancing that is bound to make your night most enjoyable. Show times at 8:30 p.m. and 10:30 p.m. nightly except Mondays.
Admission: $16 per person - includes one drink. Tel. 327-7711.

Dining (Also See Accomodations)

The Shoal Restaurant and Lounge: Nassau Street, serves both
Bahamian and American cuisine, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Open daily 7:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Tel. 323-4400.

The Green Shutters Inn: 48 Parliament Street, is an authentic
English Pub built into a 190-year-old Bahamian home offering Bahamian and English dishes. Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. and dinner is served 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Open Sundays 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tel.325-5702.

Double Dragon Chinese Cuisine: Located on Mackey Street. Open Monday through Thursday 12 noon to 10 p.m. Saturday 4-11 p.m. and Sunday and holidays 4-10 p.m. Tel. 393-5718.

The Poop Deck: East Bay Street, serves Bahamian seafood. Open daily. Tel. 393-8175.

Accommodations

Nassau Marriott Resort & Crystal Palace Casino
Reservations phone: (800) 222-7466- Marriott has 867 guest rooms, 124 suites, 7 restaurants, 3 lounges.
Dining: Sole Mare (gourmet Italian with view of the beach and pool deck) Open 6 days, 6:00p.m.-11:00p.m. (closed Mondays). Seaside Buffet (breakfast, lunch, dinner) Open 7:00a.m.-11:00p.m. Black Angus Grille Open 6 days, 6:00p.m. - 11:00p.m. (closed Sundays).
Goombay Mama's (breakfast/lunch/dinner) Open 6 days.
Crystal Sweets Open 7 days, 7:00a.m. - 11:00p.m.
Flamingo Poolside Grille Open 7 days.
Phil's Casino Bar & Deli Open 7 days, 10:00a.m. - 4:00a.m.
Recreation: Rainforest Adventure Golf Course (putt-putt), freshwater pool with swim-up bar.

Nassau Beach Hotel
Reservations phone: (888) 627-7282. 403 guest rooms and suites and 6 restaurants, 3 bars/lounges, 4 meeting rooms, 2 swimming pools, 6 tennis courts, quiet beautiful beach tennis and watersports in the charming Old Colonial style of bygone days. For the more quiet type of guest.

Dining: Pineapple Place (buffet breakfast) Open daily 7:30a.m.-11a.m.
Cafe Johnny Canoe - (breakfast-lunch-dinner) Open daily 7:30a.m.-midnight.
Beef Cellar and Italian Gardens (both dinner nightly) 6:30p.m.-11:00p.m.
Oceanview Grill – (lunch/dinner daily) Open11:00 a.m.-3:00pm..
Sbarro – (lunch/dinner daily) Open 11:00a.m. - 11:00p.m.
King & Knights Club (two shows nightly-8:30pm and 10:30pm)

 The Radisson Cable Beach Resort pool. © Eric MillerRadisson Cable Beach Resort
(European Plan or All-Inclusive)
Reservations phone: (800) 777-7800 or (242) 327-6000 - 700 rooms and suites and 6 restaurants. Located on 1,000 feet of white sand beach. Championship golf and CampJunkanoo for kids. Fitness center, free weddings, fancy landscape of freshwater pools with waterfalls, jacuzzis and swim-up bar.

Dining: Bimini Market Grill, Amici Italian Cuisine, Tequila Pepe's Steakhouse-Cantine, the Dolphin Grill, Avacados Fine Dining, The Forge.

Sandals Royal Bahamian Resort & Spa
(couples only): Winner of the prestigious AAA - 4 Diamond Award
Phone for reservations: 1-800-SANDALS- 406 guest rooms and suites, and 6 restaurants (plus snack bar). World's most elegant all-inclusive resort. The Spa voted the best in the Caribbean by readers of Conde Nast Traveler. Recreation: watersports & landsports including SCUBA, golf and waterskiing. Spa facilities, fitness center, 6 pools (2 swim-up bars).

Dining:
Spices (breakfast) 7:30a.m. -10:00a.m.
The Crystal Room (dinner) 6:30p.m. - 9:30p.m.
Baccarat (French gourmet) 6:00p.m. - 10:00p.m.
Royal Cafe Grill (Caribbean/Southwestern) 7:00p.m. - 10:00p.m.
Café Goombay (offshore island) 6:30p.m. - 9:30p.m.
The Cricketers (authentic English Pub) - 7:00p.m. - 3:00a.m.

SuperClubs Breezes Bahamas
(all-inclusive resort for people over 16 years of age): Reservations phone: (800) 859-7873 - 400 guest rooms and 3 restaurants. Tennis courts, trapeze and circus lessons on the beach for guests. Watersports, fitness center, windsurfing, landsports, tennis, etc. Super-inclusive package includes accommodations, all meals, snacks, unlimited premium brand drinks, all land and water sports (with instruction and equipment), recreation, entertainment, airport
transfers and hotel taxes. Caribbean design.

Dining:
Main dining room, Pastafari (dinner only); Pool Grill (snacks and refreshments).

Tours

Best Tour Company
Majestic Tours / Bahamas Fantasies on island, phone:
(242) 326-5818.