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Alaska Run


A steam driven cruise ship lies below the ultramodern lines of Canada Place in Vancouver, British Columbia. The Universe Explorer sits serenely at dock awaiting her passengers and crew. She is a mid-sized ship and her lines are unlike the other ships enroute to Alaska. They resemble ships on steroids; bulked up in an impressive but unattractive way.

 

The Universe Explorer sits at dock below Canada Place. (copyright Tyson Brooks)Upon boarding the Universe Explorer I notice the quirkiness of her design. She is laid out like a ship should be; with nooks and crannies and plenty of viewpoints to admire destinations along the way. A little rough around the edges, her personality shines through and affects everything.

On-board education is entertainment

The first thing one must do when boarding a cruise ship is explore. Perhaps the most striking room on board is the library. A collection of over 16,000 books graces a beautiful room complete with carved wooden tables and chairs. Originally a casino, only the lights are left. It is not only the library that makes this ship and experience so unique, World Explorer cruises have done away with the Las Vegas style shows and gambling atmosphere. After all this is Alaska we are traveling to. If you want Vegas go to Nevada!!

To compliment the library four or more lecturers are on board every cruise. We were fortunate to have a geologist, historian, astronomer and biologist; all tops in their field and many with a sense of humor. The usual boring days at sea where most passengers rise at noon with a hangover are replaced with a more informative life. Passengers are up at nine to learn about the glaciers we will pass, the animals we will see, and the history of the great white state. If you have had a late night out with the astronomer, gazing, or watching the orange ball of a sun set in the north, you can catch the lectures on your stateroom’s television.

The mountains around Valdez seen as the ship steams out to sea. (copyright Tyson Brooks) Days at sea aboard are busy. Lectures are non-stop and other activities like learning to paint with a visiting water colorist make a creative and instructive day. Others choose to sit on deck and watch for whales and dolphins as the ship steams up the magnificent coast. Thankfully, they schedule lectures around days at port and glacier viewing opportunities. While the lecturers were relaxing (and always accessible for your bizarre questions on the gender of glaciers or the habits of the horn billed puffin) a variety of onboard guests gave informative talks and performances. These guests were usually natives or national park rangers that joined the ship by launch as we cruised up the coast.

Evenings the entertainment was a little lighter with jazz bands, classical vocals and a bevy of enjoyable but simple and imaginative acts. On request the hammered dulcimer player gave musical spoon lessons. For night owls the band plays until midnight and a late night movie always shows in the theater.

The ship itself is well kept having been recently refurbished in 1995. It lacks the incredible glitz of the newer ships and is a bit sparse, but functional. The cabins resemble souped up college dorms and some feature bathtubs. During university semesters the ship cruises the world with a crowd of university students. In the summer the Universe Explorer does fortnight Alaska cruises for regular passengers and at Christmas it offers two cruises around Central America. For the summer and Christmas run the ship is transformed from a floating university into a comfortable cruising home. Artwork, quality furniture and better food ensure that the guests are comfortable. Only hints that the ship spends most of its time as a floating dormitory are revealed. The drawers in the cabins are a little tinny and if you look closely you can find occasional graffiti etched into cabin desks revealing the life of a lovesick freshman. But cruising around the world does have its advantages: while in South Africa they stocked up with excellent wine and in other ports they added non-perishables. Unfortunately, the Italian chefs (fantastic with pasta) create very poor Asian fare. The Chinese dinner and afternoon buffet looked impressively authentic, but turned out to be a forgery.

The Itinerary – the ship as an explorer

The streets of Ketchikan (copyright Tyson Brooks) The ship's 14-day itinerary takes in the major sites like Glacier Bay, Skagway, Juneau and Ketchikan. These ports, although interesting are usually overcrowded and have a touristy core that overflows with shops selling cheap trinkets. Other ports the Universe visits like Wrangell, Seward and Kodiak are peaceful in comparison. Many of these are only served by the Universe Explorer. Wrangell is peaceful and quiet enough that a bored police officer gave my table mates a lengthy tour of the town from his police vehicle. Be forewarned that most of the excursions in these small towns utilize school buses. These towns reveal the real Alaska. The Universe Explorer enhances the feeling of the town by inviting local musicians onboard.

Shore Excursions – a sampling

Activities abound for any age or interest. Choices range from dog sledding on glaciers to tickets to the family style Seward Marine Center (I would recommend this incredible facility to everyone). But my favorite excursion is the hike and bike tours available in each port. These guided tours are the perfect way to view glaciers, mountains and the occasional moose and bear from the saddle of a bicycle. Other favorites include white water rafting in Valdez and organized nature hikes.

A seal at the Seward Marine Center (copyright Tyson Brooks) Size does matter

The Universe Explorer is a midsize ship with a good environmental record and a unique steam driven propulsion system that creates less underwater noise. Not only can the ship squeeze into ports most ships have had to bypass but your chances of seeing wildlife increases. With its good environmental record the National Park's department increased the Universes’ permits to ensure that every sailing has access to Glacier Bay.

While in Glacier Bay and near Hubbard Glacier it is easy to see bear and mountain goats from the ship (binoculars are a must). The captain has even been known to turn the ship around for a closer look. Seals are visible on sea ice and the ship will change course to avoid disturbing and separating the mother seal from her pup. Passengers sit on deck while watching the whales spout or the dolphins play along side the ship. Those with a good eye will see eagles circling in the distance as the boat cruises up narrow fjords and the channels of the inside passage.

A hiking trail to a garnet mine near Wrangell (copyright Tyson Brooks)The Universe Explorer is not for everyone. The majority of passengers were those who wanted to get a lot more out of Alaska and a little more out of life. These were the folks who would not be caught on a mass-market ship. The staff and passengers of the Universe are the type of people you want to be stuck with at a cocktail party. Wonderful stories and experiences abound.

When you go:

The Universe Explorer leaves from Vancouver on two- week cruises every summer. For information and reservations call 1-800-854-3835 For a brochure call 1-800-325-2752

Or visit the World Explorer website www.wecruise.com for detailed information on the ship.

Evenings the entertainment was a little lighter with jazz bands, classical vocals and a bevy of enjoyable but simple and imaginative acts. On request the hammered dulcimer player gave musical spoon lessons. For night owls the band plays until midnight and a late night movie always shows in the theater.

The ship itself is well kept having been recently refurbished in 1995. It lacks the incredible glitz of the newer ships and is a bit sparse, but functional. The cabins resemble souped up college dorms and some feature bathtubs. During university semesters the ship cruises the world with a crowd of university students. In the summer the Universe Explorer does fortnight Alaska cruises for regular passengers and at Christmas it offers two cruises around Central America. For the summer and Christmas run the ship is transformed from a floating university into a comfortable cruising home. Artwork, quality furniture and better food ensure that the guests are comfortable. Only hints that the ship spends most of its time as a floating dormitory are revealed. The drawers in the cabins are a little tinny and if you look closely you can find occasional graffiti etched into cabin desks revealing the life of a lovesick freshman. But cruising around the world does have its advantages: while in South Africa they stocked up with excellent wine and in other ports they added non-perishables. Unfortunately, the Italian chefs (fantastic with pasta) create very poor Asian fare. The Chinese dinner and afternoon buffet looked impressively authentic, but turned out to be a forgery.

The Itinerary – the ship as an explorer

The streets of Ketchikan (copyright Tyson Brooks) The ship's 14-day itinerary takes in the major sites like Glacier Bay, Skagway, Juneau and Ketchikan. These ports, although interesting are usually overcrowded and have a touristy core that overflows with shops selling cheap trinkets. Other ports the Universe visits like Wrangell, Seward and Kodiak are peaceful in comparison. Many of these are only served by the Universe Explorer. Wrangell is peaceful and quiet enough that a bored police officer gave my table mates a lengthy tour of the town from his police vehicle. Be forewarned that most of the excursions in these small towns utilize school buses. These towns reveal the real Alaska. The Universe Explorer enhances the feeling of the town by inviting local musicians onboard.

Shore Excursions – a sampling

Activities abound for any age or interest. Choices range from dog sledding on glaciers to tickets to the family style Seward Marine Center (I would recommend this incredible facility to everyone). But my favorite excursion is the hike and bike tours available in each port. These guided tours are the perfect way to view glaciers, mountains and the occasional moose and bear from the saddle of a bicycle. Other favorites include white water rafting in Valdez and organized nature hikes.

A seal at the Seward Marine Center (copyright Tyson Brooks) Size does matter

The Universe Explorer is a midsize ship with a good environmental record and a unique steam driven propulsion system that creates less underwater noise. Not only can the ship squeeze into ports most ships have had to bypass but your chances of seeing wildlife increases. With its good environmental record the National Park's department increased the Universes’ permits to ensure that every sailing has access to Glacier Bay.

While in Glacier Bay and near Hubbard Glacier it is easy to see bear and mountain goats from the ship (binoculars are a must). The captain has even been known to turn the ship around for a closer look. Seals are visible on sea ice and the ship will change course to avoid disturbing and separating the mother seal from her pup. Passengers sit on deck while watching the whales spout or the dolphins play along side the ship. Those with a good eye will see eagles circling in the distance as the boat cruises up narrow fjords and the channels of the inside passage.

A hiking trail to a garnet mine near Wrangell (copyright Tyson Brooks)The Universe Explorer is not for everyone. The majority of passengers were those who wanted to get a lot more out of Alaska and a little more out of life. These were the folks who would not be caught on a mass-market ship. The staff and passengers of the Universe are the type of people you want to be stuck with at a cocktail party. Wonderful stories and experiences abound.

When you go:

The Universe Explorer leaves from Vancouver on two- week cruises every summer. For information and reservations call 1-800-854-3835 For a brochure call 1-800-325-2752

Or visit the World Explorer website www.wecruise.com for detailed information on the ship.