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Augsburg: A Hidden Gem Rises from Munich's Shadow


Augsburg’s canals provide a perfect setting for ducks - and people. Copyright: Jim Johnson.As I tried to cross a small footbridge in Augsburg's Old City, an indignant duck blocked my way. I merely wanted to continue my walk, but the duck didn't seem to care. Behind him, another duck led a troop of ducklings from the sidewalk, down a grassy embankment, and into a rushing canal. Once the ducklings were safe, my adversary quacked his approval, did an about-face and joined his family. In a blink, they caught the current and disappeared around the bend.

 

Ducks notwithstanding, Augsburg is one of Germany's most walkable cities. Even the exploration-challenged can follow color-coded signs for themed routes like "Tour of the Outer Wall," "History Tour" and "Tour of the Palaces." It's a university city as well, and students add their own brand of exuberance to the streets, whether it's smooching couples filling alleyways with laughter or crowds sitting outside coffee houses and jazz clubs. Thriving low- and high-tech manufacturing industries have brought affluence to the city; in the evening, impeccably dressed residents take to the streets on their way to gallery openings, plays or fancy restaurants.

Thus Augsburg, long in nearby Munich's tourism shadow, offers visitors a blend of cosmopolitan flair with old-world charm, of vibrant commercial life with a respect for history.

Nowhere is this more evident than at the Fuggerei, the oldest "social settlement" in the world. Admittedly, you rarely find low-income housing on a tourist's "must-see" list. In Augsburg, it's a prime attraction. Of course, this settlement dates from the 16th century, a gift of the wealthy Fugger brothers. The Fuggerei, with its 148 apartments, offered citizens life-long housing for the equivalent of a dollar a year – as long as they were poor, married, Catholic and born in Augsburg. To stay, they had to commit to daily prayers. Today, if you meet those guidelines – and are retired – you are eligible to live there. The rent hasn't changed. And you still have to pray.

The front of an apartment in Augsburg’s Fuggerei district. Copyright: Jim Johnson.Surrounded by walls and gates, the Fuggerei is a medieval town within a town, its tiny apartments painstakingly restored after World War II. The original doorbells are still there: not buttons but chains with metal hand-grips – each one different in shape so that residents could find the right home in the darkness. Flowers pour from window boxes down pastel walls. The red, ceramic roofs are stained green by moss.

Sightseers mingle with residents on the cobblestone main streets, around fountains and statues and in the surrounding cobweb of alleys and passageways. Courtyards lure the curious and fatigued, where only rustling leaves break the silence. No cars are allowed. Only the clothing suggests it's the present.Narrow alleys lead through the walled Fuggerei district. Copyright: Jim Johnson.Augsburg was nearly 1600 years old by the time the Fuggerei was built. What had started as a Roman military camp became a Roman provincial capital for more than 400 years. By the 15th century, Augsburg was one of Europe’s wealthiest and most important merchant cities. The prosperity led to the construction of elaborate palaces and merchant homes, many still standing and open to the public. The wealth also allowed craftsmen to flourish. During the 17th century, the city had more goldsmiths than bakers.

That was quite evident as I climbed the stairs in the 17th-century city hall. Upstairs, I found the Gold Hall, famed for its intricately carved wall and ceiling facades – most coated in gold leaf – and Renaissance murals. Outside, schoolchildren filled the town square. As luck would had it, it was St. Michael's Day, the one day each year that a statue of St. Michael came alive in the adjacent Perlach Tower, originally a 13th century watchtower. Each hour, shutters flew open, and the hero killed a dragon with repeated strikes from his sword.

The dragon successfully slain, I escaped the crowd with a quick detour to the Market Square, open seven days a week and a delight for the senses. Some tables overflowed with peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, radishes, kohlrabi, corn and herbs from local farms. Others were topped with imported fruit, like grapes from Italy and oranges from Israel. Some booths were specialized – including one where a long line formed for wild mushrooms. Flowers filled one corner, baked goods another. The square was bordered by two buildings – one for fish, the other for meat. For $2, I had a snack of dumplings in rich beef broth. For "dessert," beets – cooked, sliced and sweet as could be.

The arts distict in Augsburg’s Old City offers a cobblestone collection of quirky shops. Copyright: Jim Johnson.Although George Washington never slept in Augsburg, many major figures have. Playwright Bertolt Brecht was born there in 1898 and lived in a typical craftsman's house – now a museum – in the Old Town. Mozart's family came from Augsburg. His great-grandfather, a brickmason, had broken a rule of the day by burying a hangman. No one would hire him, and, in poverty, he brought his family into the Fuggerei. Mozart's father was born less than a mile away and lived in a patrician home – also now a museum – before moving the family to Salzburg. The last direct descendant died only 30 years ago.

In 1518, Martin Luther first defended his theses of Protestantism to an emissary of the Pope. His home for three weeks was St. Anna's Church, a former monastery that offers excellent examples of gothic, renaissance, baroque and rococo styles.

By Augsburg standards, St. Anna's is new. The city's cathedral was established in 823. And, although most of the city's wall dates from the Middle Ages, you can still find stretches of the original Roman wall.Ivy nearly covers an etched street sign in the old city. Copyright: Jim Johnson.The Romans were responsible for another distinct feature: an intricate canal system. They diverted water from the nearby River Lech as it flowed from the Alps to the Danube. Just south of the city, the Romans divided it into narrow canals – which merge again north of the city and flow back into the Lech.

Today, nearly 12 miles of canals stretch through and under the city. By one count, as many as 600 bridges cross the waterways – more, Augsburgers claim, than in Venice or Amsterdam. Starting as long ago as the 11th century, merchants harnessed the waters to drive more than 60 mills; some waterwheels are still visible. Some citizens fished from in front of their houses. Perhaps the most ingenious use was as a cooling system for the17th-century Butcher Hall. The cool water flowed under the cellar, keeping meat fresh – or as fresh as possible.

The canals in the so-called Lech Quarter give the Old City a distinctive atmosphere. The rushing waters lend a sense of life and movement, the subtle river sound a sense of calm. And then, of course, there are the ducks.

A gnome stands guard over a courtyard in the 17th century Fuggerei, the world’s oldest ‘social settlement.’ Copyright: Jim Johnson.When You Go:

Transportation

Augsburg is easily reached from the United States by frequent connecting flights through Frankfurt. A more scenic route is by the high-speed train that stops at the Frankfurt airport's new rail station. Once you're in the city, your feet and a network of local trains and buses can get you where you need to go.

Lodging

Accommodations run the gamut from quaint pensions and guesthouses to modern and classically luxurious hotels.

For More Information:

 

Augsburg is a member of the Historic Highlights of Germany, a consortium of 13 Germany cities that pride themselves especially on their historic offerings to visitors. While their own Web site is being developed, visit www.germany-tourism-de and click on the "Historic Highlights" section.

Narrow alleys lead through the walled Fuggerei district. Copyright: Jim Johnson.Augsburg was nearly 1600 years old by the time the Fuggerei was built. What had started as a Roman military camp became a Roman provincial capital for more than 400 years. By the 15th century, Augsburg was one of Europe’s wealthiest and most important merchant cities. The prosperity led to the construction of elaborate palaces and merchant homes, many still standing and open to the public. The wealth also allowed craftsmen to flourish. During the 17th century, the city had more goldsmiths than bakers.

That was quite evident as I climbed the stairs in the 17th-century city hall. Upstairs, I found the Gold Hall, famed for its intricately carved wall and ceiling facades – most coated in gold leaf – and Renaissance murals. Outside, schoolchildren filled the town square. As luck would had it, it was St. Michael's Day, the one day each year that a statue of St. Michael came alive in the adjacent Perlach Tower, originally a 13th century watchtower. Each hour, shutters flew open, and the hero killed a dragon with repeated strikes from his sword.

The dragon successfully slain, I escaped the crowd with a quick detour to the Market Square, open seven days a week and a delight for the senses. Some tables overflowed with peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, radishes, kohlrabi, corn and herbs from local farms. Others were topped with imported fruit, like grapes from Italy and oranges from Israel. Some booths were specialized – including one where a long line formed for wild mushrooms. Flowers filled one corner, baked goods another. The square was bordered by two buildings – one for fish, the other for meat. For $2, I had a snack of dumplings in rich beef broth. For "dessert," beets – cooked, sliced and sweet as could be.

The arts distict in Augsburg’s Old City offers a cobblestone collection of quirky shops. Copyright: Jim Johnson.Although George Washington never slept in Augsburg, many major figures have. Playwright Bertolt Brecht was born there in 1898 and lived in a typical craftsman's house – now a museum – in the Old Town. Mozart's family came from Augsburg. His great-grandfather, a brickmason, had broken a rule of the day by burying a hangman. No one would hire him, and, in poverty, he brought his family into the Fuggerei. Mozart's father was born less than a mile away and lived in a patrician home – also now a museum – before moving the family to Salzburg. The last direct descendant died only 30 years ago.

In 1518, Martin Luther first defended his theses of Protestantism to an emissary of the Pope. His home for three weeks was St. Anna's Church, a former monastery that offers excellent examples of gothic, renaissance, baroque and rococo styles.

By Augsburg standards, St. Anna's is new. The city's cathedral was established in 823. And, although most of the city's wall dates from the Middle Ages, you can still find stretches of the original Roman wall.Ivy nearly covers an etched street sign in the old city. Copyright: Jim Johnson.The Romans were responsible for another distinct feature: an intricate canal system. They diverted water from the nearby River Lech as it flowed from the Alps to the Danube. Just south of the city, the Romans divided it into narrow canals – which merge again north of the city and flow back into the Lech.

Today, nearly 12 miles of canals stretch through and under the city. By one count, as many as 600 bridges cross the waterways – more, Augsburgers claim, than in Venice or Amsterdam. Starting as long ago as the 11th century, merchants harnessed the waters to drive more than 60 mills; some waterwheels are still visible. Some citizens fished from in front of their houses. Perhaps the most ingenious use was as a cooling system for the17th-century Butcher Hall. The cool water flowed under the cellar, keeping meat fresh – or as fresh as possible.

The canals in the so-called Lech Quarter give the Old City a distinctive atmosphere. The rushing waters lend a sense of life and movement, the subtle river sound a sense of calm. And then, of course, there are the ducks.

A gnome stands guard over a courtyard in the 17th century Fuggerei, the world’s oldest ‘social settlement.’ Copyright: Jim Johnson.When You Go:

Transportation

Augsburg is easily reached from the United States by frequent connecting flights through Frankfurt. A more scenic route is by the high-speed train that stops at the Frankfurt airport's new rail station. Once you're in the city, your feet and a network of local trains and buses can get you where you need to go.

Lodging

Accommodations run the gamut from quaint pensions and guesthouses to modern and classically luxurious hotels.

For More Information:

Augsburg is a member of the Historic Highlights of Germany, a consortium of 13 Germany cities that pride themselves especially on their historic offerings to visitors. While their own Web site is being developed, visit www.germany-tourism-de and click on the "Historic Highlights" section.