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Sailing the Straits of Malacca


Copyright Victoria Brooks.I can still picture the smooth sapphire waters of the Andaman Sea flowing beneath me as I lay thrilled / scared / then relaxed, in the giant hammock of ropes and steel they call a bowsprit. I lay suspended high above the Star Flyer's prow -- until the glittering sunlight changed to early evening's dusky mauve.

 

Guy and I, along with 168 other passengers and 72 crew from all over the world, would journey into the past on a magnificent clipper ship. Like Marco Polo we would sail along the coast of Thailand and Malaysia in a bed of teak accented by glowing brass, under 16 gleaming white sails. A Norwegian captain and his capable crew, aided by a northeasterly monsoon with its 10- to 15-knot winds, would take us from Phuket, Thailand -- through the Straits of Malacca -- on a seven-day voyage to Singapore.

We threaded our way to exotic ports and beauty spots where we stopped along the way.

Last of the clipper ships: The last of the great and historic clipper ship passenger trade was stopped by progress -- the opening of the Suez Canal. The sea road to the Orient's riches switched from westward across the Pacific, to eastward through the Mediterranean with its undependable winds. Steamships came into vogue, and in 1870 the last passenger-carrying clipper ship ceased service. The Star Flyer is one of only two clipper passenger ships in existence that is powered by sail every nautical mile (if wind permits).

The Star Flyer is a thing of beauty and no slouch when it comes to picking up speed. She is at 360-feet overall, the biggest clipper ship ever built -- but not so big she can't slip into small harbors where other ships wouldn't dare venture. With four towering steel masts, one of them 226-feet high and 36,000 square feet of immaculate Dacron sail, including 5 square masts, and long stretches of gleaming teak decks -- she is truly queen of the clippers. On her proud and elegant bow rides a massive golden eagle.

She really flies…... Copyright Victoria Brooks.She can race under sail as fast as her ancestors, the swift clipper ships of the mid-19th century. Ten knots is her preferred speed, but she can crank it up to 14.4 if she needs to. When the winds won't blow against her sails, or when she must maneuver into a harbor, the Star Flyer can still do 10. She is fitted with a single 12-cylinder, 1,350-horsepower Caterpillar 3,1252 diesel engine linked to a fully feathering prop.

I knew this was to be a trip with a difference. I also knew that this might be the most relaxing holiday that could ever be. For the first time in my life, I experienced the noiseless tranquility that washes over the soul when the only sound is that of wind and sea.

Our fearless leader and life at sea: Our esteemed captain, a Norwegian proud of his ship and a magnet for the ladies, often called on eager passengers to help hoist the main halyards and man the helm-all done in time to heart-stopping classical music. The captain, eager to educate the ardently curious passengers who wanted to know the secrets of "How to Sail a Square Rigger," called us on deck each morning for casual, and often humorous, hands-on instruction. His officers called it " Captain's story time."

Locals at the beach. Copyright Victoria Brooks.Pastimes:

When we weren't ashore, we played in one of the two seawater swimming pools, relaxed on deck, or watched the well-muscled crew work the sails -- like agile acrobats they climbed up and down the tall masts. When we desired total peace, we clambered into the bowsprit, high above the water to nap, read -- or just savor the pure enjoyment of fresh air and the sound of the sea. There is also an outdoor area for weight training shared with staff, a library, comfortable air-conditioned cabins, and of course, copious amounts of food and a well-stocked bar. If anything was missing for a comfortable sea voyage, we weren't aware of it.

Exotic ports of call:

 

We left the lovely island of Phuket on a moonlit evening, the jungle-covered hills glowing in the distance like emeralds under the bright moon. Our suitcases were stuffed with Thai silk and copycat clothing bought for a song. Phuket's weather had turned us golden brown and we were happy that the Star Flyer's itinerary and dress code would allow us to continue to wear shorts and bathing suits.

Fishing at Phang Nha. Copyright Victoria Brooks.The next three days would be spent frolicking in seas and soaking up scenery. Mornings we were off in tenders that skipped over the sapphire and emerald sea to tiny Ko Surin, to Ko Similan, to Phang Nga with its huge limestone formations that rise from the sea like monoliths. (Ko means island in Thai.) We had picked up our snorkeling gear from the ship on the first day and were not disappointed in any of the tiny kos. All are national parks; all are tiny natural jewels.

Malacca girl! Copyright Victoria Brooks.Ko Similan was designated one of the best deep diving spots in the world by Diving Intern (USA). Transparent waters beckoned and we spent the days snorkeling in the unbelievably clear, warm waters, marveling at the sheer numbers and colors of tropical fish. When we tired of diving, snorkeling, kayaks and banana boats- we would lie under shady sea grape trees, hunt for lizards, or watch pelicans hurl themselves into the sea.. Like wealthy Robinson Crusoes, we thought the world was ours to enjoy. Evenings over dinner, passengers shared their experiences. We all loved the exotic names and were fascinated by the wonders of this faraway place. Each evening someone would look up from a menu or smile over a drink and sigh, "I can't believe I'm here. It's so beautiful --and don't you love to say the name Phang Nga?" And then the whole table would break into a rhythmic chant: "Phang Nga! Phang Nga!"

Riding the Star Flyer. Copyright Victoria Brooks.The last days of our voyage were spent exploring Langkawi, duty-free ports on the coast of Malaysia, and Mallaca. Both beautiful, both different. Mallaca, the oldest city in Malaysia is a charming place with its exotic, eclectic mix of Chinese (who came in 1405), Portuguese (from 1510), Dutch (1641), and English (1795) cultures. It is a city that has retained its character. It is a city to browse through and shop for antiques. The voyage had to end and it did in Singapore-but memories of the Star Flyer and the Straits of Malacca don't fade easily-I can still see the white sails billowing against a silver sea.

Further details available worldwide at your travel agent, or phone Star Clipper toll free in North America at 800 442 0551,
or go to
www.star-clippers.com

Exotic ports of call:

We left the lovely island of Phuket on a moonlit evening, the jungle-covered hills glowing in the distance like emeralds under the bright moon. Our suitcases were stuffed with Thai silk and copycat clothing bought for a song. Phuket's weather had turned us golden brown and we were happy that the Star Flyer's itinerary and dress code would allow us to continue to wear shorts and bathing suits.

Fishing at Phang Nha. Copyright Victoria Brooks.The next three days would be spent frolicking in seas and soaking up scenery. Mornings we were off in tenders that skipped over the sapphire and emerald sea to tiny Ko Surin, to Ko Similan, to Phang Nga with its huge limestone formations that rise from the sea like monoliths. (Ko means island in Thai.) We had picked up our snorkeling gear from the ship on the first day and were not disappointed in any of the tiny kos. All are national parks; all are tiny natural jewels.

Malacca girl! Copyright Victoria Brooks.Ko Similan was designated one of the best deep diving spots in the world by Diving Intern (USA). Transparent waters beckoned and we spent the days snorkeling in the unbelievably clear, warm waters, marveling at the sheer numbers and colors of tropical fish. When we tired of diving, snorkeling, kayaks and banana boats- we would lie under shady sea grape trees, hunt for lizards, or watch pelicans hurl themselves into the sea.. Like wealthy Robinson Crusoes, we thought the world was ours to enjoy. Evenings over dinner, passengers shared their experiences. We all loved the exotic names and were fascinated by the wonders of this faraway place. Each evening someone would look up from a menu or smile over a drink and sigh, "I can't believe I'm here. It's so beautiful --and don't you love to say the name Phang Nga?" And then the whole table would break into a rhythmic chant: "Phang Nga! Phang Nga!"

Riding the Star Flyer. Copyright Victoria Brooks.The last days of our voyage were spent exploring Langkawi, duty-free ports on the coast of Malaysia, and Mallaca. Both beautiful, both different. Mallaca, the oldest city in Malaysia is a charming place with its exotic, eclectic mix of Chinese (who came in 1405), Portuguese (from 1510), Dutch (1641), and English (1795) cultures. It is a city that has retained its character. It is a city to browse through and shop for antiques. The voyage had to end and it did in Singapore-but memories of the Star Flyer and the Straits of Malacca don't fade easily-I can still see the white sails billowing against a silver sea.

Further details available worldwide at your travel agent, or phone Star Clipper toll free in North America at 800 442 0551,
or go to
www.star-clippers.com